Wednesday, February 5, 2014

The Fineness And Softness Of Vicuna Fiber

By Jayne Rutledge


Vicuna fiber is the rarest, most expensive natural fiber in the world. Vicunas look like their cousins, the llamas, but they are the smallest members of the camelid family. They live in the high, freezing altitudes of the Andes. These animals were considered sacred by the Incas and only members of royalty were allowed to wear the precious cloth woven from their fleece. This fleece is not only very soft and fine but it has remarkable insulating properties and resilience too.

During the reign of the Incas, more than two million vicunas roamed the Andes. Subsequent cultures, beginning with the Spanish conquerors, slaughtered many of these animals for their precious hides. By 1966 there were less than 5 000 left and the Peruvian government had to step in. The remaining herd was placed on a 12 000 acre reservation. Capture and shave programs were instituted which meant that local communities profited more from keeping the animals alive rather than killing them.

In 1994, three companies were selected to join a consortium formed by the Peruvian government. They had the right to process and export fabrics and finished products made from the fibers. The strategy of these companies has been to establish reserves where these animals are protected, bred and sheared. They are committed to keeping the quality and increasing the quantities available for export.

The coats of vicunas are not only unusually soft and light but very warm at the same time. This warmth and resilience is due to the extreme conditions in which the animals live. The fleece is much, much finer than a human hair and even finer than cashmere. It is the neck and the back that are sheared for the fleece.

The fleece consists of two layers. The underneath layer is formed from densely packed fibers with tiny scales that lock together forming pockets filled with air for insulation. The outer layer is silky and long, varying in shade from dark fawn and golden brown to the color of wheat.

The chacu was a ceremony used by the Incas for rounding up these animals for shearing before releasing them into the wild again. Traditional roundups are still conducted today, although they are now strictly monitored by government. The locals slowly encircle the animals, eventually taking them into tents where they are sheared and then released. The Peruvian government uses a system of labeling to identify garments that are created from fibers obtained through a government sanctioned chacu. The profits from sales return to the locals.

Another reason why these fibers are scarce is that an adult can only be sheared every two years. Added to this is the fact that one adult only provides about 120 grams, not enough to make even a scarf. In order to make a sweater, the fleece from about six animals is required.

What makes vicuna fiber even more precious is that, unlike goats, sheep and even alpacas, vicunas cannot survive in captivity, starving themselves to death when penned in. They have to be given freedom to roam in wilderness preserves. The relative scarcity and extraordinary expense continue to keep supply and demand limited. However, as more individuals become educated about this these extraordinary fibers, demand is growing worldwide.




About the Author:



No comments:

Post a Comment